Kani weaving was introduced into the state during the first half of the 17th century, with the onset of the Mughal rule. This technique was mainly used in the weaving of the famous Pashmina shawls. During the 18th and 19th century a series of eyeless wooden bobbins, called ‘kani’ in Kashmiri, filled with colored yarns replaced the shuttle used in ordinary weaving. This enabled the actual designs to be woven into the fabric of the cloth. The kani weavers were therefore often referred to as ‘Khandwao,’ meaning a person weaving without having any idea of the designs that is going to emerge.

The designs used in the earlier Kani Pashmina shawls of the medieval period exhibited a heavy influence of Mughal culture. One of the major design themes used in the shawls was a large plain center with narrow borders along the two sides with recurring images of a single flower. The middle of the 18th century marked a major change in the design scheme. The designs were made more elaborate. The recurring flower pattern gave way to a design involving a bunch or bouquet of flowers, which eventually evolved to the famous cone shape and its many variations. The flower cone remained a favorite pattern, even though more elaboration was added to the designs under the influence of the various dynasties that ruled Jammu and Kashmir.

The style of Kani weaving declined during the late 19th century. The currently available Pashmina shawls are plain ones decorated with fine embroidery, the trademark of Kashmiri style.